For most retailers in the lingerie and intimate industry, the economic downturn brings with it worry regarding what the future will hold. Apparently, consumers no longer think new and trendy undergarments are necessities. Is it really so?
Lingerie and intimate industry in the midst of economic downturn
Special to FashionIndustryToday.com
May 2, 2008
Samantha Rose
For most retailers in the lingerie and intimate industry, the economic downturn brings with it worry regarding what the future will hold. Kate Linstrom, Designer and Owner of the label Objets Trouves, stated “I have noticed that overall buyers are being cautious due to the struggling economy, but I’m also finding that they are still getting excited by certain items that really stand out and give the consumer an emotional reason to buy. In particular, my high-waisted panties are a hit; it helps that high-waisted bottoms/slacks/denim are trendy but the panties are also strong because they have original silkscreens created from vintage lace making each pair one-of-a-kind. As I start researching for my upcoming Spring 2009, the faltering economy is a reminder to me that more than ever I need to create pieces that evoke a response in the consumer and inspire them to buy.”
Lingerie is a French term for women’s undergarments. In our own Western culture these undergarments are eroticised heavily. Lingerie has evolved from women wearing heavy whalebone contraptions with laces and pulleys to what we typically see today- sexy, silky and lacy.
Years before Christ on the Island of Crete, the women were extremely bold. Their concept of lingerie included a boned bodice corset that was designed not to support them but to tease men- pushing their breast up and out. They managed to captivate the concept of sexy but their version of lingerie was far from what we think of today.
Over time as the vision of women’s shape changed and the concept of what the female silhouette looked like emerged clothing was designed to fit and make this shape look more appealing. Two main elements of the silhouette are the bust and the butt. Some cultures expect the bust to be prominent while others feel that the derrière should be the main point of concern.
During the Middle Ages individuals felt that the silhouette should be restrained. They believed that breasts should be firm, small and not noticeable. Many women wore corsets over their dresses designed to flatten the breasts. They also wore an iron hinged armor like corset so that their body appeared flat and smooth beneath their clothing.
In the Renaissance period, the Spanish felt that the female silhouette was perfectly padded in all of the right places. The Spanish wanted to see women with cone-shaped breasts, taught, tight stomachs and slim waists. The women of this time period were dressed by others because cinching the corsets was done from behind and required immense amounts of strengths. During this time period a petticoat called a Spanish Farthingale was constructed. It was worn with the corset. It had hoops and went from the hip to the floor. It supported large skirts and gave the woman a gliding, elegant movement when she walked. It was later worn with a roll of stiffened material designed to accentuate the butt. This roll was called the Bum Roll.
By the 18th century clothing trends were beginning to change and though women still wore whalebone corsets, more artistic lingerie was entering the scene. Corsets were decorated with embroidery, ribbons and lace. The corsets of this time period also pushed the breasts up a tremendous amount. By the late 18th century individuals were becoming more rebellious- including rebelling against the corset. Doctors warned against the dangers of wearing corsets- including but not limited to causing permanent damage to major organs. Boned corsets were then outlawed.
By the end of the 19th century, the corset was used not only to support breasts but also to hold up newly created stockings. Stockings were held up by garters and suspenders which were attached to the corset.
At the beginning of the 20th century corsets were beginning to be laced down as far as the knee. A lot of people were opposed to this style, and fashion designers were beginning o lean towards designs without corsets that had a more free-flowing style.
Mary Phelps Jacob created a new type of bra that was softer and shorter than a corset. It allowed for breasts to maintain their natural shape. She had her design patented and later sold her patent to Warner Company.
Following World War I, women started to enter the job force and corsets were not at all appropriate for factory work. Women needed shorter skirts made from cooler and lighter fabrics that could be cared for with ease.
The elaborate and lavish parties of the 1920s ushered in the love of the boyish silhouette. Women wanted flat chests and stomachs, as well as straight hips and buttocks. The fashion industry invented the liberty bodice, the chemise and bloomers all were loose fitting and light. The corset was no longer needed and the bra was being worn to flatten the chest.
The 1930s was a time when women were expected to look well- proportioned, full-figured but still maintain slim, trim hips. Women were equipped with their entire lingerie set to enhance their figures. The full set included a brassiere, a suspender belt for tights and a girdle to keep the curves in the right places. Dunlop Rubber invented Lastex in the 1930s. It was used to make lingerie elastic so that it could be made in various sizes designed to fit any female’s figure.
World War II brought tremendous shortages. People began to make home-made underwear out of any materials they could come up with. After the war teenage girls became the target market for lingerie sales.
Women wanted to look sexy so the lingerie industry really took off. Howard Hughes created the under wire bra for Jane Russell. By the 1980s under wire bras and push-up were best sellers. They were perfect for individuals who needed extra support or someone who wanted to appear a little larger than they truly were. They remain popular today.
By the end of the 20th century and the beginning of the 21st century, the fashion industry was encouraging women to show off their underwear as outerwear that is worn for the partner’s visual enjoyment. A lot of women look at lingerie as their second skin. Now women are completely free in their lingerie decisions.
Today women’s undergarments vary in shape and size. Lingerie still serves the same purpose- which is proving women with the ability to look and feel sexy. The only thing that is different now is the method. Our culture allows so much more freedom than was allowed in the past. Fabrics are lighter, lacier and even sexier. The ideas of what can be shown is way more liberal. Men love it. The goal of the lingerie industry today remains the same as it did in the past- create an image of women who are both desirable and sexy. Lingerie today is luxurious, beautiful and feminine it is appreciated for it practicality and comfort.
Throughout history, the lingerie industry has changed and evolved. The economy has fluctuated. One thing that has not changed is the desire of women to look and feel sexy. Lingerie isn’t just something you wear under your clothing. For most women it is an extension of themselves and regardless of the economy they will still strive to look sexy and feel better.
Regarding the economy of the lingerie industry Cyla Weiner, owner of Sylene of Washington
stated “I think the intimate apparel business can maintain a downturn in the economy much better than other segments. This is because bras and panties are a necessity and they provide immediate gratification at an affordable price. It doesn’t matter what your household income is you can always find a bra and panty set that will be in your price range. This is a “feel good” purchase. I think what we’re seeing is people still shopping but buying in less quantity. Basics are essential, but fashion and trend are not. Women may not need another nightie that is $200 but they will certainly pick something up that is $80-100. Also sex never goes out of style nor does it hinge on the state of the economy. We always see people in relationships that splurge regardless of economic times.” Cyla has grown up in intimate apparel business with her parents and opened Sylene’s in 1975. She has seen economic fluctuations and knows that women will still desire to be sexy, look good, and feel great regardless of th economy.
Shirley of Hollywood has been in the business for over 60 years serving over 3,500 stores around the world including the U.S.. Shirley makes millions of intimates every year and is behind famous collections for Playboy, Marshall Fields, Walmart, Macy’s, and even created it’s signature corset for films and TV including Moulin Rouge, The Patriot, Pussy Cat Dolls Presents: The Search for the Next Doll, and and America’s Next Top Model.
For 60 years, Shirley of Hollywood has symbolized sexy, designing quality collections that make women feel as sensual as they look. To celebrate their 60th Diamond Anniversary, Shirley is bringing back sexy like never before with its one-of-a-kind Red Carpet Collection, which is new
classics lingerie line designed to flatter the modern-day woman’s body. Spun from gossamer silks and satins, trimmed with luxurious laces, extravagant crystals, gilded gold and silvery metallic, each garment spans the decades, making glamor attainable to everyone, everywhere. Like the Hollywood starlets that inspired them, these dazzling creations seduce and sizzle.
While the country is facing an economic downturn, Shirley is forever navigating the business challenges and opportunities. Shirley’s has made private collections, their own public collection, served major stores like Walmart, only to change in specializing in small boutiques and e-tailers with no minimum orders and at once shipping.
Shirley remains a family-owned business – now in it’s 3rd Generation. Shirley’s has seen a 20% growth this year. It hasn’t been easy, but they have managed to make amazing sales this year. When asked how they were accomplishing such amazing growth, and how they’d managed to stay in business for so long Shirley’s President Roy Schlobohm said “I think one of the main reasons Shirley of Hollywood is still in business after 60 years — and not just surviving but continuing to grow– is we are willing to change. We are not locked in to one way of doing things. Our model for doing business is very different than it was pre-Internet, 15 years ago. We are also willing to take calculated risks, such as expanding our successful lines, even in what many are calling a down economy. For instance, we grew our popular Halloween/costume collection from a 35 page catalog in 2006 to 100 pages in 2007 and now, 150 pages in 2008. After being in business for 60 years, we know what Shirley of Hollywood stands for – quality and service on the business/customer relations side of things, and fit, comfort, great design and value on the product end. It’s our goal to make doing business with Shirley as easy as possible on our customers. We are a people company based on personal relationships at every level and our business breaks down to three key categories: relationships with our employees, customers and suppliers; the design and marketing function; and financial management, organization and administration.”
When asked to comment on the economic downturn and how it is affecting the lingerie industry Lone March Schneider responded, “Are sexy undies and self-esteem boosting experiences like boudoir photography the first to go during economic downturns? As the founder of Lolo’s Boudoir, where we help women embrace and explore their sensual selves through personalized intimate photo sessions, I have on the contrary experienced an increase in business over the past 6 – 12 months. It is my sense that as women start to embrace themselves and focus on building self-esteem, they prioritize their well-being and sensual pleasures above and beyond anything else, also if it means saving up for it or skipping on other things. And perhaps the warnings of economic downturn inspires us to focus on that which makes us feel confident, beautiful and sexy? Talk to me in 6 months and let’s see if there’s been a change in women’s priorities.”
It seems to be the general consensus that though the economic downturn brings fears to the lingerie industry they aren’t failing or hurting at this point. As long as the product is sexy, and reasonably priced women will still purchase and business will still thrive.[]
Samantha Rose is a business writer at FashionIndustryToday.com.